In a historic pivot for European fashion hegemony, the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) today confirmed two Chinese designer brands—SHUSHU/TONG and PRONOUNCE—will debut on the main runway schedule of Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026. Slated for September 22-27 at Palazzo del Ghiaccio, this marks the first time in MFW’s 42-year history that Chinese labels occupy core calendar slots, challenging the West’s monopoly on luxury aesthetics.
The Chosen Disruptors
SHUSHU/TONG (Founded by Liushu Lei & Yutong Jiang)
- Aesthetic Arsenal: Fuses saccharine ruffles with punk hardware, dubbed "East Asia’s youth culture cipher" by Vogue Italia.
- Commercial Clout: #shushutong TikTok views hit 800M; revenue up 210% in Europe since 2024 Kering minority stake.
PRONOUNCE (Founded by Yushan Li & Jun Zhou)
- Craft Revolution: Merges Mongolian feltwork with Italian leathercraft; 2025 LVMH Prize Special Jury Award winner.
- Strategic Footprint: 35% sales from Europe pre-MFW; exclusive partnership with Tuscan tannery Conceria Walpier.
Why This Rewrites the Rulebook
- Selection Criteria Overhaul
CNMI President Carlo Capasa confirmed: "Cultural contribution weight" now equals commercial viability in judging. SHUSHU/TONG’s Gen Z resonance and PRONOUNCE’s craft hybridity scored 9.2/10. - Supply Chain Subversion
Both brands adopt "Designed in Shanghai, Perfected in Parma" model—PRONOUNCE’s alpaca wool coats undergo artisanal dyeing in Lombardy, bypassing China’s luxury manufacturing stigma. - Data-Driven Disruption
Bain & Co. reports European retailers’ orders for Chinese designers surged 210% YoY in Q2 2025, dwarfing 9% growth in traditional luxury.
INDUSTRY BACKLASH & BETTING
- Skepticism: "MFW risks diluting Italian identity," warns former Armani creative director.
- Validation: 10 Corso Como allocated 40% of SS26 buy budget to Chinese designers; launch party confirmed with PRONOUNCE.
WHAT’S NEXT
- Policy Tailwinds: Shanghai government subsidies cover 60% of MFW show costs for domestic brands.
- Retail Revolution: Rinascente dedicates 500 sqm "New East Collective" space featuring AI-powered fitting rooms.
Post time: Aug-06-2025